How to transplant cucumbers in a greenhouse: all about timing and agricultural technology

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The benefits of growing vegetables in greenhouses have long been known. However, summer residents do not always succeed and make a number of mistakes. In order for the crop to invariably please, you need to know how to properly plant cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse, which must be taken into account.

Greenhouse preparation

Rule one - the greenhouse must be properly prepared. This work includes several stages, and none of them can be neglected.

Disinfection of the greenhouse with a sulfur checker

Disinfection of the structure

It is carried out in the fall or spring, if we are talking about an unheated structure, but no later than two months before planting the seedlings. The event is aimed at the destruction of larvae and adults of insects, as well as pathogens that harm cucumbers. Not only structural elements are subject to processing, but also the soil, which improves its composition.

Before the start of work, the greenhouse is freed from trellises and implements, plant residues are removed, not forgetting about the roots. Then the inner surfaces are moistened with water, washed with any detergent.

The joints of structural elements, where the bulk of pathogens and offspring of pests are usually concentrated, are especially carefully processed.

After washing, the greenhouse is ventilated, dried, then proceeds to the next stage - restoring the integrity of the structure. The slots are caulked or filled with sealant, the damaged covering parts are replaced.

For disinfection, a composition is selected that corresponds to the material of construction.

  • Wooden elements are treated with bleach or home remedy - "Whiteness", then impregnated with vitriol, copper or iron, whitewashed.
  • Metal parts are first washed with 9% vinegar, the scratches that have been revealed are cleaned with sandpaper, treated with a solvent, primed, covered with paint. After drying, they are washed with Bordeaux liquid.
  • Light-transmitting coating (glass, polycarbonate) is washed with potassium permanganate and dried. If a film is used, it is removed in the fall, cleaned, and returned to its place in the spring.

The final stage is the disinfection of the structure as a whole. To do this, use:

  • sulfur checkers, if the frame is wooden;
  • copper sulfate at the rate of 200 g of powder per 10 liters of water;
  • preparations based on iodine - according to the instructions.

Digging soil in a greenhouse

Disinfection and soil preparation

The best option is a complete replacement of the soil in the greenhouse, but the method is not available for all summer residents. That is why it is required to carry out a complete improvement of the soil.

The soil is disinfected in one of three ways - thermal, biological or chemical.

The thermal method involves heating the soil with hot - about 700 ° C - steam, which requires special equipment. Therefore, summer residents use ordinary boiling water, spilling the earth with it and immediately covering the beds with black dense plastic wrap. A day later, the earth is dug up, again spilled with boiling water. The procedure is repeated three times.

Biological disinfection not only cleans the soil from harmful microorganisms, but also improves its quality. For this, siderates are sown - white mustard, oil radish, legumes. They can be planted in autumn or spring.

  • For film greenhouses, the sowing time for siderates is March and early April.
  • For polycarbonate greenhouses - the second half of February.

Other means of biological disinfection of greenhouse beds are EM preparations, biofungicides (Fitosporin, Trichodermin), biodestructors.

Chemical disinfectants - bleach, which is scattered over the surface, and then dug up the soil, or a solution of potassium permanganate for irrigation.

Mineral fertilizer

Soil preparation

The first events are held in the fall. After cleaning the greenhouse from the remnants of fertile crops, the soil is loosened, manure is distributed over its surface - 25 kg / m2, potash fertilizers - 40 g / m2, superphosphate - 40 g / m2... To normalize acidity, lime or dolomite flour is used. Repeated digging is carried out to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

For transplanting seedlings, greenhouse beds begin to be prepared from the first days of April. The optimal composition of the soil for cucumbers is peat, humus, garden soil in a ratio of 5: 3: 2. Summer residents, who have been engaged in greenhouse cultivation of crops for many years, advise adding chopped bark or leafy soil to increase yields.

Warm bed with cucumbers in the greenhouse

A simple warm bed for planting cucumber seedlings

Growing cucumbers in warm beds - an excellent agrotechnical technique that allows you to shorten the waiting time for the first zelents with simultaneous feeding with organic fertilizers.

The soil is loosened, a half-meter deep trench is dug along its entire length. Furrow width - 25-30 cm. The bottom is covered with dry branches. A layer of dry grass is laid on top with vegetable peels. This is followed by a layer of rotted manure or compost. The ridge is finally formed by filling the earth to a height of 25-30 cm.

Such a bed will provide the borage with organic matter, the decaying lower layers will release the heat needed by the growing seedlings.

Also, fertilizers are added to the soil - superphosphate (2 tbsp. L.), Potassium sulfate (1 tbsp. L.), Urea (1 tbsp. L). for every square meter of beds.

Planting cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse

How to plant cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse?

In order to plant cucumber seedlings correctly, they follow certain rules regarding the timing of planting, the placement of seedlings in the beds and other aspects of crop cultivation.

Timing

The planting time of seedlings is determined by two factors. First, the seedlings should be 20-25 days old, and by this time they should have at least a couple of true leaves. The second is the temperature of the soil and air in the greenhouse. When planting in spring, this parameter should be at 15 ° С for soil, 20 ° С for air.

The specific terms depend on the design features of the greenhouse (presence or absence of heating) and the climatic conditions of the area. For example, cucumbers are planted in unheated greenhouses:

  • in the Moscow region and the Middle lane - in mid-May;
  • in the North-West and the Urals, in Siberia - at the end of May;
  • in the south - in the second half of April.

Greenhouse with cucumbers

Installation of trellises

Shortly before planting the seedlings, trellises are installed (if they were removed for general cleaning).

For common trellises, metal pipes with a length of at least 3 m are dug in at the ends of the beds per meter, strong cords are pulled parallel to the soil surface in increments of 20-30 cm.

If wooden beams are chosen, additional supports are installed every one and a half to two meters, the structure is fastened with a transverse crossbar laid on the support pillars, fixed with metal brackets, corners or nails. Next to the planting holes, pegs, wooden or metal, are driven in, equipped with rings or ears for tying twine.

Greenhouse with cucumbers

Landing scheme

Before planting mature seedlings in the beds, holes are formed at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other. Their depth is determined by the height of the seedling cup with a small margin to form a small depression for watering.

Usually, for greenhouse borage, one of three planting schemes is used: two-line, checkerboard or single-line.

According to the two-line scheme, cultivars are planted, the leaves and fruits of which are of medium size. The parameters for placing plants with a bed width of 80-90 cm are as follows:

  • the distance between the landing points is 40-45 cm;
  • the distance between the rows is 50 cm.

A two-line planting scheme assumes the opposite arrangement of plants relative to each other, therefore, excess shoots and leaves are regularly removed from them so that light and air are available to each specimen.

With a staggered arrangement, the plants do not block each other's light, do not interfere with normal ventilation. The scheme is suitable for planting large-fruited varieties with large leaves. The parameters of the scheme are almost the same as for two-row beds, however, when growing varieties with medium-sized fruits and leaves, it is permissible to slightly reduce the planting step in order to accommodate more plants.

The one-line chart is good for hybrid varieties that produce bountiful harvests. The planting step is also often reduced, since plants planted in one row do not block the access of light and air to each other. The width of such beds is 40-50 cm, the interval between the seats is 25-30 cm. The beds are placed at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other.

When choosing a planting scheme, they pay attention to the pollination method: bee-pollinated varieties and hybrids are planted in one row, less often in a checkerboard pattern. There are no more than 4 plants on each square meter.

If the cucumbers are grown in a greenhouse, use the same planting pattern.

Cucumbers are transplanted into the greenhouse according to the algorithm:

  1. Wells just before planting are watered with a warm pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Fitosporin or another biofungicide.
  2. In order to less injure the fragile roots of cucumbers, cups with seedlings are pre-soaked in water or watered abundantly. After a few minutes, the substrate becomes moist enough to be easily removed from the container.

    If the seedlings were grown in a container made of pressed cardboard, the bottom of the container is carefully removed and the walls are torn. Peat pots do not need preliminary preparation.

  3. Saplings, together with a lump of earth, are carefully placed in prepared holes. It is undesirable to deepen the seedling hypocotal knee, so as not to provoke the development of decay processes. If the seedlings are overgrown, dry compost or tree bark is poured up to the cotyledon leaves. If the first flowers have already opened, they are cut off along with the unopened buds.
  4. An earthen lump is covered with soil, watered. If the ground has settled heavily, add a new portion.
  5. If the pegs were not driven in beforehand, they are installed at this stage. Later it will be difficult to do this - the soil will be compacted, the roots of the seedlings will grow in breadth.
  6. Spread a 5-10 cm layer of mulch from peat, humus, hay. It will protect the root system from freezing, drying out, restrain the growth of weeds, and facilitate further care for cucumbers.

Blooming cucumber in the greenhouse

Greenhouse cucumber basics

Watering is carried out only with warm (20-25 ° C) water. For greenhouses, it is optimal to install a drip feed device, this saves water and improves the quality of irrigation. Before flowering, watered every 5 days at a water flow rate of 3-6 l / m2... Flowering lashes are watered every 2-3 days, consuming 6-12 l / m2, during fruiting, increase to 15-18 l / m2.

The cucumber is fed 5 times during the period after planting the seedlings, alternating organic matter and mineral fertilizers or using ready-made organomineral complexes for cucumbers or pumpkin seeds. From the moment the first buds appear, fertilizers are selected so that the nitrogen content in them is minimal.

To provide the cucumbers with the carbon dioxide necessary for photosynthesis, a container is placed in the greenhouse where fresh manure or dung is poured.

Maintain thermal and humidity conditions. The optimum daily air temperature is 25-27 ° C, humidity is 90% during the period of mass fruiting. At the stage of growth and bud formation, the air humidity is maintained at 80%. The parameters are controlled by airing and spraying cucumber lashes with water.

The large difference between day and night temperatures favors the growth of green mass.This mode is useful for cucumbers in the first two weeks after transplanting. The smaller the daily temperature fluctuations, the more active the fruit setting process is, therefore, with the beginning of flowering, the day and night temperatures in the greenhouse are leveled.

The formation of cucumber lashes is aimed at increasing the yield of the crop, protecting it from diseases. How to carry out the procedure correctly, it is told here.

The borage is regularly inspected for timely identifying signs of disease or pest attacks... In addition to the examination, prophylactic spraying with home or biological agents is carried out.

Seedlings of cucumbers

Frequent mistakes when planting seedlings

Many summer residents mistakenly believe that the older the seedlings, the better for it, they say, it is stronger, it will be better to take root in a new place. In fact, in a small capacity, already in monthly seedlings, the root system begins to feel worse, which leads to unpleasant consequences:

  • seedlings take longer to take root in a new place;
  • cucumbers become prone to root rot;
  • fruiting occurs later.

Dense planting of seedlings is often practiced with the good intention of collecting more greenery. In reality, tightness in the garden leads to weak branching of vines, which affects the quantitative indicators of fruiting. In addition, ventilation is disturbed, cucumbers lack lighting, which also affects productivity. Finally, it is much more difficult to care for closely growing whips: you can miss the appearance of pests, signs of an incipient disease. These troubles with close planting spread rapidly, affecting the entire greenhouse in a matter of days.

Applying a large amount of fertilizer during planting so as not to bother yourself with feeding cucumbers later will also not lead to anything good. Plants are not able to assimilate large doses of fertilizers, which is why agronomists draw up a special schedule for their introduction.

It often happens that the same composition is fed both after planting seedlings and after flowering. However, at each stage of development, cucumbers require different nutrient complexes.

It happens that summer residents simply feel sorry for pinching shoots that are full of health, they are left in the hope of getting a bigger harvest. The result turns out to be the opposite - due to poor ventilation of plants, most of the ovaries fall off, vines are affected by fungal diseases, and are attacked by insects.

Often, the taste of greenery deteriorates if cucumbers of different types of pollination are planted in the greenhouse. Experienced gardeners are advised to select varieties and hybrids of the same type for greenhouse cultivation - only bee-pollinated, self-pollinated or parthenocarpic.

The success of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse is almost entirely determined by the correct planting. If all the necessary conditions are met, the seemingly difficult caring for plants becomes much easier when the maximum yield is reached.

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